Asturian hill fort: history, types and key sites in Asturias

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The Asturian hill forts are much more than four old stones on a hill: they represent almost a thousand years of history, conflicts and ways of life of the peoples who inhabited the territory we now call Asturias. For centuries, these fortified enclosures were home to self-sufficient communities who defended themselves as best they could in a harsh and competitive world.

Thanks to archaeology, we now know that hidden beneath the grasses, ditches, and walls of these settlements lies an everyday landscape made up of cabins, metal workshops, ovens, saunas and assembly houses. At the same time, emblematic forts such as Chao Samartín or Coaña have become visitable and educational spaces, ideal for understanding how the ancient inhabitants of the northern peninsula lived.

What is an Asturian hill fort and what was life like inside it?

When we talk about castro in Asturias, we are basically referring to a fortified settlement built in a high or strategic positionIt is usually located on a hill or promontory with good views of the surrounding area. Its main feature is the presence of monumental defenses—walls, moats, parapets—that enclosed the area where daily life was concentrated.

During the very long period between the end of the Bronze Age and full integration into the Roman world, in Asturias No other type of stable settlement is documented other than this fortified villageTherefore, many archaeologists and historians group this entire period under the umbrella of "Castro Culture," highlighting its connection with the Celtiberian culture and the defensive nature of the habitat as its most visible hallmark.

Within these enclosures, self-sufficient communities were organized, that is to say, groups that were largely self-sufficient and competed with other villages because of the basic resources: farmland, timber, hunting, pastures and, especially, the mineral deposits of iron, copper or gold that later interested the Romans so much.

The dwellings were usually circular or oval-shaped huts, or structures with gently rounded corners; many of them combined stone walls with wooden frameworks covered in mudAround it, unique buildings for collective use could appear, such as saunas or indigenous baths, meeting houses, and workspaces where artisanal activities took place.

Archaeological excavations have unearthed handmade and wheel-thrown ceramics, kilns, molds, slag, and metal pieces that demonstrate a remarkable mastery of metallurgy, as well as Personal ornaments and highly elaborate jewelry that reveal a rich artistic abilityAll of this indicates complex, hierarchical societies connected with exchange networks that are broader than might appear at first glance.

How are the hill forts of Asturias classified?

If we focus on the territory of the present-day Principality of Asturias, the hill forts can be classified in several ways according to their location, altitude, or the period in which they were occupied. This classification helps to understand the enormous variety of settlements within the same basic model of a fortified village.

On the one hand, considering their location, it is common to distinguish between coastal hillforts and inland hillforts. The former are situated on cliffs or headlands, controlling the coastline, while the latter appear inland, often on isolated crags, conical hills or promontories that dominate valleys and natural passesBoth types share a clear defensive vocation and a focus on territorial control.

If we look at the altitude, we find hill forts in relatively flat areas, built on small hills or ridges, and others in mountainous environments, where They occupy the highest part of a peak or crag, making the most of the terrain.In these cases, the natural slopes act as an additional wall and are reinforced with embankments, ditches and parapets where the terrain is more accessible.

The chronological criterion adds another layer of interpretation. In general terms, the occupation of the hillforts begins in the transition between the Late Bronze Age and the Early Iron Age, continues throughout the first millennium BC, and, in many cases, It extends into the early centuries of the Roman presence in AsturiasIt is not uncommon to find small Late Roman or Early Medieval reoccupations in enclosures that regain their defensive function centuries later.

The cataloging studies initiated by authors such as José Manuel González and Fernández-Vallés, who in the 1960s inventoried fewer than one hundred hill forts, are now largely outdated. Currently, The number of hill forts identified in Asturias far exceeds 220 and continues to increase. thanks to advances in research and the review of the territory with new tools.

Main types of Asturian hill forts and representative examples

Within this broad catalog, Asturian hill forts exhibit diverse shapes and sizes: small enclosures barely a few tens of meters in diameter alongside large settlements easily exceeding one hectare. At the same time, we find settlements in a "crown" on hills, hillforts on slopes, authentic fortified acropolises and coastal villages hanging over the sea.

In the central-eastern area, Campa Torres (Noega), above present-day Gijón, is a good example of a coastal fort that controlled the coast from an altitude of about 100 meters. Further west, Cabo Blanco, in Valdepares (El Franco), stands out as one of the largest coastal hill forts, with several walled enclosures and up to five ditchesOther important coastal enclaves are Castrillón (in the council of the same name), Medal or Teifaros, all of them guarding the Cantabrian front.

Inland, there are numerous fortified settlements, such as Cercu de la Barquerona or Picu Catalín near Villaviciosa, with oval enclosures, multiple ditches, and counterscarps protecting small to medium-sized platforms. Other notable settlements include El Castiellu de Camoca and Picu Castiellu de Moriyón. large in size and with walls that completely surround the living area, often terraced on the hillside.

The central mountain range, in municipalities such as Ḷḷena, Aller, Ayer or Sobrescobiu, concentrates a good number of sites located at more than 700 or 800 meters above sea level: small hillfort-towers on limestone crags, elongated enclosures with two or more ditches, and even platforms almost completely destroyed by modern constructions such as water reservoirs or cemeteriesEven so, the defensive belts and traces of the houses are still legible.

In the west, between the Eo and Navia rivers, we find the area traditionally attributed to the Galicians, with hill forts such as Coaña, Chao Samartín, Pendia, Mohías, San Isidro or San Luis, many of them associated with gold and other metal mining operationsHere the overlap of pre-Roman and Roman phases is especially visible, both in domestic architecture and in defensive structures.

Hillforts of western Asturias (between the Eo and the Navia rivers)

The area between the Eo and Navia rivers contains some of the most spectacular and best-studied hill forts in Asturias. They are often referred to as Galician hill forts due to their affinities with the fortified settlements of Galicia, both in the defenses and in the layout of the houses and in certain shared cultural traits.

This western complex includes coastal and inland sites, many of them linked to the extraction of gold and other minerals. This is the case of sites such as El Castrón de Arancedo, where denarii from the time of Augustus and "sigillata" pottery have been found; San Isidro, with its system of embedded stones or “Frisian horses” that hindered the advance of troops and cavalry; or the hill fort of Cuturulo (Valabelleiro), whose origin is directly associated with a Roman mining operation.

Also noteworthy in this same area are Pendia, with an acropolis and a settlement separated by a wall and predominantly circular dwellings; Chao Samartín, fully excavated and turned into a museum; and Mohías, with its very regular streets, suggesting strong Roman planning; or San Luis (Allande), with distinct neighborhoods of circular and square houses and an occupation sequence that extends to the 4th century AD.

Other hillforts, such as La Escrita in Boal, display ditches, ramps, walls, and a complex urban layout still under excavation. These are complemented by virtually unknown or little-excavated sites—Castromior, Castromourán, Meredo, Montouto, Viladaelle—which form a mosaic of deposits pending large-scale systematic studyEverything points to a densely populated landscape, structured around mining and communication routes to the interior.

Taken together, this western sector serves as a privileged laboratory for studying the transition between indigenous settlements and Roman occupation, as well as the role played by the area's mineral wealth in shaping the network of hillforts.

The Chao Samartín hill fort and its museum

The hill fort of Chao Samartín, in the council of Grandas de Salime, has more than earned its fame as one of the most relevant and influential hillfort sites in AsturiasLocated in a strategic position, dominating the surroundings, it was an important settlement until an earthquake in the 2nd century AD caused its destruction and abandonment.

Archaeological excavations carried out in recent decades have allowed the reconstruction of the settlement's evolution, from its initial pre-Roman phases to the moment it became fully integrated into the dynamics of the Roman world. Thanks to these research campaigns, the site can now be explored with the help of [unclear - possibly "experts" or "archaeologists"]. Guided tours are organized from Tuesday to Saturday, and also on Sundays and public holidays., with schedules adapted to the general public.

Next to the hill fort is the Chao Samartín Museum, designed as an essential complement to the visit. Guided tours of the settlement depart from its facilities, and it also offers an expository discourse that contextualizes the Castro Culture in AsturiasIt explains the archaeological method and shows the most significant findings of the research.

This museum is open mornings and afternoons from Tuesday to Saturday, while on Sundays it is open only in the morning. This allows curious travelers, school groups, and archaeology enthusiasts ample opportunity to explore the museum comfortably. one of the best examples of a fortified settlement excavated and restored in the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula.

The Association of Friends of the Navia Historical Park, deeply involved in promoting this heritage, has developed numerous educational materials to bring together the most up-to-date information on the Castro Culture, with a special focus on Chao Samartín and its surroundings, seeking to bring this ancient past closer to specialists and the general public.

History, visit and surroundings of the Castro de Coaña

If there is a famous hill fort in Asturias, it is the one in Coaña, popularly known as Castrillón, according to the residents of the areaLocated on a high point overlooking the Navia estuary, it watched over and defended this important waterway for centuries. With the arrival of Rome, it became a key element of the imperial system for ensuring the transport of gold from nearby mines.

Under Roman rule, Coaña experienced its greatest period of prosperity in the second half of the 1st century AD, but excavations have shown that The village has clearly pre-Roman roots.Circular dwellings are usually attributed to an earlier indigenous settlement, while rectangular houses correspond to the reorganization of space during the Roman occupation.

Coins from the time of Caesar and earlier have been found in the area, with a particularly high volume of issues corresponding to the reign of Augustus. These are complemented by pieces from the reigns of Tiberius, Claudius, and Quintilus, dating to the 3rd century. Meanwhile, carbon-14 dating of other Asturian hillforts, such as San Chuis and Chao Samartín itself, which point to chronologies from the 7th and 8th centuries BC, has led to a reassessment of... the traditional idea that these sites originated at the same time as the Roman presence.

The tour of the Coaña hill fort begins by passing through a formidable stepped wall, at the entrance of which the remains of a rectangular tower that defended the entrance to the main enclosure or acropolis can be seen. Between this tower and the wall, on the northern slope of the hill, lies the so-called northern quarter, where the remains of the fortifications are preserved. Dozens of circular and rectangular structures between 4 and 6 meters in diameter -in the case of round cabins- and up to about 5 x 12 meters in elongated houses.

Many of these buildings feature central hearths, millstones, large granite blocks, and other elements that provide insight into domestic life. However, one of the most striking areas of the site is the so-called "sacred enclosure" or cultic area, where two groups of buildings, presumably related to the water worship and thermal use.

The first complex includes a chamber with an apse, a semi-oval pool, tiled flooring, and a system of channels; the second features an antechamber followed by a large hall leading to a sizable granite pool. Although its precise function remains a matter of debate, many researchers interpret this space as a rudimentary but highly unique thermal bath within the Cantabrian context.

In a small depression near the hill fort is the educational classroom of the Archaeological Park of the Navia Basin, a facility designed to explain in an engaging way the hill fort culture, Roman gold mining and the keys to archaeological work in the fieldThis classroom serves as an ideal complement to the visit to the village and brings together panels, models and audiovisual resources.

How to get to the Castro de Coaña, opening hours and fares

Accessing the Coaña hill fort is quite simple if you use the town of Navia, crossed by the N-634 road, as a reference point. On the left bank of the estuary is the town of El Espín, from where you have to take the AS-12 highway towards Grandas de SalimeAfter passing through the village of Coaña, there is a signposted turnoff to the right that leads directly to the hill fort and the educational classroom.

The site has different opening hours for winter and summer. During the winter season, from October 1st to March 31st, it is open from Wednesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 15:30 pm, with arrival recommended no later than 15:00 pm. It remains closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.In summer, from April 1st to September 30th, it is also open from Wednesday to Sunday, although extending the hours until 17:30 pm, with the last suggested visit around 17:00 pm.

Guided tours are especially recommended to understand the organization of the settlement and the different sectors of the site, so it is advisable Please check the schedules for these routes beforehand by calling 985 978 401The management organizes groups and adapts the explanations to different visitor profiles.

Regarding prices, general admission is €3,13, while reduced admission—for children aged 7 to 12, seniors over 65, and members of large families—is €1,62. Admission is free for children under 7 and also on Wednesdays. The visit is free for individual visitorsFor organized groups, it is advisable to inform in advance and request specific conditions.

The hill fort is located near Villacondide, within the municipality of Coaña. For practical reference, the official address is Villacondide-Coaña, and the same contact number mentioned above is provided for any questions regarding scheduling, availability, and possible changes to the timetable. All of this makes Coaña a a very affordable destination for cultural getaways in western Asturias.

What to see near Coaña and other hillfort sites in the area

The municipality of Coaña offers several points of interest directly or indirectly linked to the hill fort. One of the most striking is the so-called Discoid Stele, a large circular stone that probably comes from the site itself and is associated with ancient funerary or solar cultsOver time it was Christianized and became known as the Stone of Our Lady, and today it is embedded in a house at the exit of the town, having become a symbol of the municipality.

The area is also traversed by a stage of the Camino de Santiago (Coastal Way), offering a route that connects archaeological heritage with scenic landscapes on foot. In addition, there is the Coaña coastal path and the Ortiguera maritime route, which starts in this town and runs through... the coastal strip of the council from Ortiguera towards Medal, Lloza and CartavioThe route ends in the heart of Castello. It's about 18 kilometers long, easy to walk, and can be done on foot or by mountain bike.

Very close by is Cape San Agustín, a splendid viewpoint overlooking the Cantabrian Sea where the old and new lighthouses coexist, and from which the Cantabrian Sea can be clearly seen. the close relationship between the maritime landscape and historic human settlementsCompleting the visit to the hill fort with this panoramic viewpoint helps to understand the choice of certain defensive enclaves along the coast.

Western Asturias as a whole is dotted with other unpublished or partially excavated hillforts: from the Arancedo Hillfort and the Arancedo Hillfort Crown -with coins from Tiberius and Augustus- to the various councils, San Cruz, Salcido, Mazos, Illaso or Deilán, some with clear mining connections and others are still pending further investigationThis density of enclosures reinforces the idea of ​​a territory highly structured around networks of fortified settlements.

Among the various municipalities and cultural entities—museums, educational centers, associations—a network of thematic routes and interpretive resources is being consolidated, allowing visitors to create their own itinerary through the Asturian Iron Age culture, combining Hiking, guided tours and stops at viewpoints or charming little villages.

In light of all this, the Asturian hill forts form a network of settlements that go far beyond isolated ruins: they encapsulate a thousand years of fortified habitation, an economy linked to the land and metal, contacts with Rome, and a memory passed down to the present day. Exploring sites like Chao Samartín, Coaña, Pendia, or the numerous inland and coastal enclosures is an excellent way to Explore the ancient history of Asturias while enjoying the scenery and an increasingly comprehensive network of cultural facilities..