- The study of Roman jewelry, such as that of Norbana Severa, reveals intimate details about the social hierarchy and superstitious beliefs of the time.
- Rome hides less-traveled architectural and underground wonders, from the Quartiere Coppedè to newly discovered imperial laundries.
- Ancient jewelry served not only as ornament, but as a protective amulet and a historical document of the evolution of the Latin language.
When we delve into the history of Antiquity, it's impossible not to be amazed by the sophistication of the Romans. It wasn't just about conquering half the world with their legions, but about creating a lifestyle based on ostentation , efficient management, and an art that still leaves us speechless today. Their jewelry wasn't mere adornment, but veritable open books that tell us who the person was, how much money they had, and which gods they feared.
To speak of Rome is to speak of a city that, quite literally, has layers of history beneath its feet. While tourists jostle for a photo at the Colosseum, invisible treasures and architectural gems await discovery in the alleyways of Trastevere or deep within its basilicas. It is a living museum where every stone, be it a gold ring or an underground laundry room, has a story to tell.
The allure of appearance: Jewelry and status in Mérida
A stunning example of this luxury is the case of Norbana Severa, a high-society woman from Emerita Augusta in the 3rd century. She was buried by her mother, Julia Procula, in a lead sarcophagus surrounded by dazzling gold grave goods . Among her belongings were a signet ring with her initials engraved in negative, a piece with garnets and blue gems, and necklaces called moline, which combined gold threads with glass beads and pearls.
We cannot forget the spectacular green beaded chain necklace, which perfectly complemented her earrings. These pieces are part of a collection of eighty previously unseen objects presented by the Consortium of the Monumental City of Mérida. These finds, recovered from tombs and refuse heaps, allow us to decipher the fashions of the provincial capital and understand how luxury was a tool of power and social distinction.
But it wasn't all about showing off. Many jewels had a mystical function. For example, there are earrings with amulets of hands and phalluses that served as protection against evil spirits during the journey to the afterlife. Also noteworthy are the crotalia, earrings so heavy that they deformed the earlobes and made a metallic clanging sound when walking, announcing the arrival of a wealthy woman.
Amulets, superstitions, and the language of gold
Protection was paramount, especially for young children. Pliny the Elder already mentioned that gold for children prevented poisons and curses. Children's rings have been found with inscriptions like VT F, which essentially wished the owner of the jewel happiness in the afterlife. However, parents who were poor often resorted to bronze, as was the case in a burial near the circus where a bronze moon was found.
Boys wore the bulla, a gold or leather capsule containing protective herbs, which they kept until the age of 16, at which point they transitioned to the toga virilis. Girls, on the other hand, wore silver crescent moons associated with fertility and healing to ward off the evil eye or fascinum. Interestingly, soldiers also adopted these amulets, seeking supernatural support amidst the chaos of war.
One curious find is the Praeneste Fibula, a 7th-century BC buckle containing the oldest surviving Latin text. It reads: "Manius made me for Numerius." This demonstrates that previously unknown Roman jewelry is a valuable historical document. Furthermore, the custom of giving wedding rings originated here, as a symbol of the bride becoming the owner of her own property.
Women's rebellions and laws against luxury
It wasn't all submission. In 215 BC, during the Second Punic War, the Lex Oppia was passed to curb excessive spending and ostentation during times of crisis. However, when Rome became wealthy again after defeating Hannibal, women refused to remain restricted. They organized and staged a massive protest in front of the senators to demand the repeal of the law.
Senator Cato, an extremely conservative and probably incredibly boring man, argued that if women were equal to men, they would eventually become superior. Despite the prevailing male resistance of the time, the patrician women stood their ground and managed to get the Senate to back down , repealing the Oppia Law. It was one of the first documented female rebellions, fighting for the right to wear their wealth.
Hidden Rome: Beyond the tourist guides
If you visit Rome, there are places that will blow your mind and that don't appear in every brochure. The Aventine Peilhole is one example: a hole in a door that frames St. Peter's Basilica in a magical way. Or the Coppedè Quarter, a neighborhood that seems straight out of a fairy tale with a blend of Art Nouveau and Baroque styles that is a true architectural gem.
For those who prefer to go underground, the Basilica of San Clemente is a journey back in time, as it has a 12th-century church built on top of a 4th-century one and a 1st-century Roman house. There is also Nero's Domus Aurea, a buried palace with impressive frescoes, and the lesser-known catacombs , such as those of Domitilla, where early Christian art is preserved in kilometers-long tunnels.
Recently, during the works for the Jubilee 2025, a "gem" was discovered in Piazza Pia: a perfectly preserved Roman fullonica, or laundry, covering more than 500 square meters. This site, with its stone baths and mosaics, will be moved to the gardens of Castel Sant'Angelo so that tourists can gain insight into daily life during the Roman Empire.
Secret gastronomic and artistic corners
The Roman experience isn't complete without good food. Away from the tourist traps, the Testaccio Market is the ideal place to try trippa alla romana or coda alla vaccinara. In Trastevere, if you venture into the narrower alleyways, you'll find family-run trattorias that maintain the essence of authentic cuisine , far from the commercial bustle.
As for art, the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj houses a stunning private collection featuring works by Caravaggio and Velázquez. Meanwhile, the Galleria Spada is famous for its forced perspective corridor created by Borromini, an optical illusion that makes a short passageway appear endless, demonstrating the ingenuity of Baroque architecture.
From the macabre Capuchin Crypt to the Byzantine mosaics of Santa Prassede, Rome continues to reveal secrets. Whether exploring the city in winter to avoid the crowds or taking nighttime tours of the Colosseum, the Eternal City is a tapestry where luxury, faith, and mystery intertwine at every turn, reminding us that true magic lies in looking beyond the obvious.
